L’Espalier
Anne and I went to one of Boston’s best restaurants last weekend. Our visit to L’Espalier marks the third “nice French restaurant” we’ve been to in the area. The first, No. 9 Park, is perhaps my favorite restaurant ever; the second, Aujourd’hui, I found to be a touch disappointing (for the price). L’Espalier fits somewhere in between.
When I had the opportunity to have dinner at Daniel in New York a couple months ago, I was surprised to walk away from a gourmet establishment with my stomach stretched to its limit, having been used to more wanting portions. Well, my coat buttons were again endangered at L’Espalier, and I discovered the common thread to be prix fixe meals. Between the chef’s complimentary dish, appetizer, main course, optional cheese tray, and desert, you may find your wallet a little lighter, but you sure aren’t going to go home hungry. Overall it’s probably slightly more economical, but it’s really not my preference.
The decor was very, very good at L’Espalier – bright and modern, offering a three-story overlook of bustling Boylston street. I prefer this modern look over Aujourd’hui’s more traditional ambience (though neither exceeds the cozy dining room on the commons at No. 9). The service was polite and unobtrusive, overall equal to expectations.
And the food? Undeniably outstanding, though I couldn’t help but notice that the quality marginally decreased as the evening went on. The appetizers were both truly phenomenal. Anne had a potato and leek soup, delightfully flavored with mango, while I had a tomato-mushroom-sausage omelet with a honey dijon sauce – the best omelet I’ve ever tasted. After that tour de force, it followed that the main course would be a bit of a step down. Anne had a relatively straightforward dish, free-range chicken and veggies, while I had lamb with almonds and a salsa sauce. Though tasty, these dishes didn’t have quite the delectable synergy of their predecessors. I was too stuffed to fully enjoy the deserts (a soufflé and pavlova), but they were also pretty good.
All in all it was a very nice experience, befitting a restaurant that vies for the title of Boston’s best.
